It’s a little more expensive per ounce compared to some of the other options on our list, but unless you’re dealing with a lot of automotive rust, this is the perfect size for most projects. Rust encapsulater won’t replace your missing metal but it will make what is left much stronger and I believe more rust resistant.Īfter the encapsulater cures it readily accepts a finish coat, hopefully meaning less spray painting.If you’re looking for the best combination of price and performance, then it’s really hard to top what the VHT SP229 has to offer. This is a big deal because at least in my limited experience rust is often bad on flimsy thin flange pieces such as cabinetry side panel edges and frame tube bottoms. The Eastwood encapsulater completely covers the rusted (or any) area and then hardens into a ceramic finish that is very tough. I don’t doubt it converts rust, but not so thrilled with how it works or the multi-step process suggested involving more spray paint. I have used the VHT product mentioned here. First I have to be up front and say I am an accountant who from this grill hobby is slowly learning about tools I never used before and about spray painting. see lessīut check all the questions/answers on the listing. Just my guessing as to what they might have done wrong. In another scenario, perhaps they didn't follow the instructions on timing. ![]() ![]() So, to answer my own question.in some cases the user may not have applied enough on the FIRST coat to saturate the rust. These self-reacting materials must be applied within minutes to insure the layers bond together well. Be sure to follow the instructions regarding timing. The process I just described worked best. Incidentally, I ran a number of tests over a period of several months, exposing the surface at various stages to water and time. THAT works great and you are now ready for painting. Then I covered that with self-etching primer. Then, I sanded the surface and applied another light coat of VHT rust converter. All the rust pits turned black while the freshly wire brushed steel surface remained clear. So, rather the follow the directions on the can (couple of light coats).which would never saturate the relatively thick rust in the bottom of those pits, I started with a first heavy coat.heavy enough to saturate the rust in the bottom of those rust pits. After wire brushing the best I could, there was still a substantial amount of rust down in those deep rust pits. This is where a little common sense goes a long way. Deep, 1/16" rust pits that even a SS wire wheel can't get into. ![]() ![]() To start with, my problem was about the worst case scenario I can imagine. Something must be different! The only thing I can imagine is that they used it differently and there are two possibilities here. However, I was looking at the one star reviews and was wondering what those folks did differently than what I did? Some claim the VHT doesn't work. I like other Rustoleum products but their rust converter just doesn't cut it. There was absolutely no comparison, the VHT worked the Rustoleum did NOT. I tried both.side by side on the same area on heavily rusted and pitted farm equipment 1/4" steel. Question: How does the VHT Rust Converter compares to the Rustoleum Rust Reformer? Thx.Īnswer: This is an interesting question. I noticed this posed question on the Amazon listing which addresses our question directly: Brian, that is some interesting stuff: Looks like it is closer to the Eastwood stuff.
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